Defining an era requires mapping how individuals actually dressed, not just official norms. [definitional]
The entire situation was made even more chaotic by the fact that, simultaneously, forces were also operating in the other direction. That is, a good many persons were far less "straight" than they appeared. Dress regulations could be and were enforced in both school and work settings (although they were constantly being challenged in the courts), such that many persons who might wish to express a more "hip" identity were prevented from doing so-at least for part of the day. In addition, many of the politically-oriented young-radical, liberal, and moderate-knowing that their usual appearance was offensive to the people they wished to influence, adopted what were thought to be more uncommittal styles.
XREF: Connects to methodological questions about studying cultural history through material practice versus formal records.
Lyn H. Lofland, World of Strangers_ Order a…, loc. 456